Nakhon Si Thammarat eats like a proud old city. Breakfast means khanom jeen with a mountain of fresh vegetables or khao yam from a market stall, followed by strong coffee and roti. Fruit from the orchards around Khao Luang fills the markets in season, the coast supplies seafood, and the Tenth Lunar Month Festival keeps alive a set of traditional sweets you rarely see elsewhere. The MICHELIN Guide does not cover the province, so the best food is found at markets and long-running local shops.
- Style: classic southern Thai, Thai-Muslim and Thai-Chinese
- Don’t miss: khanom jeen, khao yam, roti and coffee, Tenth Month sweets, orchard fruit
- Where: morning markets in town, Khiri Wong, Khanom and Sichon for seafood
- Travel page: Things to do in Nakhon Si Thammarat
Dishes to try in Nakhon Si Thammarat
Khanom jeen
Fresh rice noodles are a local passion. Shops serve them with fish curry (nam ya), spicy southern curries or a milder coconut sauce, alongside a free-flow basket of herbs, pickles and vegetables. Locals eat them for breakfast.
Khao yam
Rice tossed with shredded herbs, toasted coconut, dried shrimp, pomelo or sour fruit and a dark, sweet-salty budu sauce. It is a southern classic, best fresh in the morning.
Roti and kopi
Coffee shops serve roti with curry or sweet toppings and dark, sweet local coffee or pulled tea, the setting for long morning conversations.
Southern curries
Kaeng som (sour orange curry), kaeng tai pla and khua kling (dry minced-meat curry) are sold by the ladle at curry-rice shops. They are hot, so ask for a milder option if needed.
Khao mok
Spiced yellow rice with chicken or beef, found at Thai-Muslim shops, with a sweet-sour green sauce.
Tenth Month sweets
For Sat Duean Sip, families prepare traditional sweets to offer to ancestors: khanom la (fine, lacy sheets of fried rice-flour batter), khanom pong, khanom ba and khanom deesam. Khanom la is sold all year as a souvenir.
Orchard fruit from Khiri Wong
Mangosteen, rambutan, durian, langsat and other fruit from the mixed orchards around Khao Luang appear in markets in season, usually around the middle of the year.
Seafood on the coast
In Khanom, Sichon and Pak Phanang, simple seaside restaurants serve grilled fish, squid, prawns and crab.
Markets and where to eat
Morning markets in town: Markets in the Tha Wang area and around the city centre sell khanom jeen, khao yam, curries and sweets from early morning. Map
Evening markets: Night markets in town offer grilled snacks, roti, noodles and desserts; check which nights they run.
Khiri Wong: Village shops and homestays serve local dishes and fresh fruit, and sell dried fruit and community products. Map
Khanom seafront: Seafood restaurants by the beach are a good lunch after a dolphin trip. Map
Shop hours change, so check opening times before you go.
Food at festivals
The Tenth Lunar Month Festival (usually September or October) is a feast of traditional sweets, with stalls selling khanom la and other offerings and a big fair in town. During Hae Pha Khuen That around Makha Bucha, food stalls line the streets near Wat Phra Mahathat. Ramadan evening markets and Chinese New Year add more variety. See our Nakhon Si Thammarat travel page for festival details.
FAQ
What is Nakhon Si Thammarat famous for food-wise?
Khanom jeen with lots of fresh vegetables, khao yam, roti with coffee, and the khanom la sweet linked to the Tenth Lunar Month Festival.
What should I buy as a food souvenir?
Khanom la, dried fruit from Khiri Wong and local coffee are popular choices.
When is fruit season?
Most orchard fruit, such as mangosteen and rambutan, is in season around the middle of the year; the exact months vary with the weather.
Are there MICHELIN restaurants in Nakhon Si Thammarat?
Not currently. The MICHELIN Guide Thailand does not cover the province, but its markets and old shops are excellent.
More nearby
Cover photo: Khanom Jeen Nam Yaa.jpg · User:Mattes · CC BY-SA 3.0 · Wikimedia Commons
