For more than four centuries, Ayutthaya was the capital of Siam, a wealthy river city that drew traders from across Asia and Europe. Thais still call it Krung Kao, “the old capital”. Its ruined temples, now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, make it one of the most rewarding day trips from Bangkok, and an even better overnight stay.
A short history
Ayutthaya was founded in 1350 on an island ringed by three rivers: the Chao Phraya, the Pa Sak and the Lopburi. Over the next four centuries it grew into one of the great cities of Southeast Asia, until it was attacked and razed by the Burmese army in 1767. The capital later moved south, eventually to Bangkok, and many of the temples were left in ruins. In 1991 the Historic City of Ayutthaya was inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List.
Cycling the Historical Park
The ancient city centre is protected as Ayutthaya Historical Park, and the best way to explore it is by bicycle. The island is flat, the distances between the main temples are manageable, and many guesthouses and shops rent bikes by the day. Start early to beat the heat, carry plenty of water and plan a loop that takes in the big names first. If cycling isn’t for you, tuk-tuks can be hired by the hour.
Wat Mahathat: the Buddha head in the tree roots
Wat Mahathat was one of the city’s most important temples, and its crumbling chedis and headless Buddha images give a vivid sense of what was lost in 1767. Its most famous sight is a stone Buddha head cradled in the roots of a tree. It most likely fell from a statue when the city was sacked, and over the years the roots slowly grew around it.
This is a sacred image, so be respectful: crouch or kneel when taking photos so you’re not standing over the Buddha, don’t touch the roots or the head, and keep your voice low. The site opens in the morning and gets busy by late morning.
Wat Ratchaburana and its great prang
Just across the road stands Wat Ratchaburana, founded in 1424 by King Borommarachathirat II on the site where his two elder brothers were cremated after they killed each other in an elephant-back duel for the throne. Its central prang, a tall, corn-cob-shaped tower in the Khmer tradition, is one of the finest in the city. Steep stairs lead down into a crypt with rare murals from the early Ayutthaya period.
In 1957 looters broke into the crypt and stole gold treasures, only part of which was ever recovered. The surviving pieces, along with gold objects found in later official excavations, are displayed at the nearby Chao Sam Phraya National Museum, which is well worth an hour.
Ayothaya Floating Market
For a break from the ruins, Ayothaya Floating Market offers food stalls, souvenir shops and cultural shows set around waterways and wooden Thai-style buildings. It’s a purpose-built attraction that opened in 2010 rather than a historic market, but it’s a fun place to snack on local sweets and noodles. It opens daily from morning to early evening and lies just east of the island, near Wat Maheyong.
Circling the island by boat
Ayutthaya was built as a water city, so seeing it from the river makes perfect sense. Longtail boats can be hired at the pier in front of the Chantharakasem Palace area in the northeast of the island, and a full loop of around 13.5 km follows the old city canal and the surrounding rivers, passing riverside temples such as Wat Phanan Choeng. Some tours also stop at Wat Chaiwatthanaram on the west bank of the Chao Phraya. Late afternoon, as the sun drops, is the most atmospheric time to go.
Good to know
- Best for: history, archaeology and photography
- Don’t miss: Ayutthaya Historical Park, Wat Mahathat and Wat Ratchaburana
- Dress: cover your shoulders and knees at temples
- Heat: start early, wear a hat and carry water, as shade is limited among the ruins
- Tickets: the major temple sites charge separate entry fees, so carry small notes
- Getting there: trains and minivans run from Bangkok; staying overnight lets you see the ruins in the evening light
In short
Ayutthaya brings Thai history to life. Pedal between ancient temples, pause respectfully at the Buddha head in the tree, explore the crypt of Wat Ratchaburana and end the day on the water as the sun sets over the old capital. Pair it with our one-day Bangkok riverside itinerary, and see the Ayutthaya province guide for more places to visit.
